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Posts Tagged ‘St. Paul’s Cathedral’

Living In London – Weekend Away

Saturday, May 14th, 2011
Living In London – Weekend Away

Living In London – Weekend Away - Image via Wikipedia

The Great Fire Of London – ‘Burning Down The House!’

When you’re living in London, you may want to know more about the history of the great city that you have chosen to make your home. The history of London is immense and you probably don’t want to have to delve through great stores of information dates and facts. This series look at some of the definitive events in the history of London in no particular order. Last week we chatted about the events of 1066, and this week we’re donning our protective fire gear and heading to the year 1666 for some real heat and action.

The Great Fire of London

Bearing in mind that this fire was not the first to raze the city of London. The city has a pretty bad track record of being set on fire, bombed during two world wars and yet, somehow out of the ashes, the city has risen, Phoenix like, to rebuild itself and stand once more. In the late summer of 1666, London was ready for some action. Politically, the city was a tinderbox waiting for a terrorist. Despite protestant rule being restored in 1660 with Charles II, there were still uprisings directed against Catholics and Republicans. England was at war with France and Holland, and the mood of the city was decidedly angry.

The wind that swept through London was not only going to be the catalyst that caused such destruction during the fire, but it was also a wind that carried the Plague. In just two years, over 50 000 people had died because of the rapid spread of the bubonic plague. In fact, one might argue that what London really needed was a good bonfire to clear out the rot. On Sunday the 2nd of September 1666, a small home in central London caught fire. One of the reasons that it spread so fast was the dry wind that had been sweeping through the city for weeks, as well as the fact that the streets were narrow, homes were built on top of each other, oh, and nearly every home in London was built of wood.

Samuel Pepys, an English essayist and writer of the time has one of the most startling and accurate account of the fire that has survived to this day. When the mayor of London was informed about the fire, he uttered “A woman might piss it out” and yet as the night turned to day, an early dawn saw the flames leaping onto London Bridge. Samuel Pepys was one of the first to alert the King, who shimmied down his fire pole in his nightgown and ordered the destruction of as many homes as it would take to contain the fire.

The fire was now so out of control, fanned by the wind that it was impossible to contain. After a further day of fighting the flames, London was in a state of ​emergency. Looting, riots and carts filled with fleeing Londoners had blocked the city streets. The roof of St Paul’s cathedral which was made of lead, melted and poured down the streets, like molten lava escaping a volcano. Despite the mighty Thames River, people could not fight this fire with water. London had one of the most advanced firefighting equipment in the world, but even their high speed fire carts could get close enough to the fire to fight it adequately. The only answer was more demolition. In an attempt to stop the fire, houses and homes were literally being blown up, in an attempt to create wide fire breaks around the city. By destroying many areas of London the fire was eventually brought under control.

By Thursday, it was all over, bar a few falling, embers. The wind had slowed down and changed direction. Nearly 400 acres of the city of London had been destroyed and the people wanted answers. As is usual in government investigation, everybody was under suspicion, some people falsely claimed to have started the fire and many people blamed foreigners, leading to some of the worst violence against foreigners in the city of London. Eventually it was decided to blame the church and for nearly a century after the fire the cause of the Great Fire of London was blamed on the Catholics. This was perhaps one of the first world events to attract the attention of conspiracy theorists. The 1666 version of who shot JFK was born.

Dinner Party Trivia Facts:

How many people died in the Great Fire of London? Not as many as you’d expect. The death toll directly resulting from the fire was only a handful. Reports range from 4-6 people. The first death was the upstairs maid in the home where it started. However, it is interesting to note that the aftermath of the fire killed many hundreds of people in the interim camps set up around the city. What the Great fire of London did though, was to burn out much of the plague that had killed tens of thousands of people. It led to better housing conditions, better city planning and rebuilding on a massive scale. ​

 

 

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Moving to London: The American Expat in London Diaries – Part II

Thursday, February 24th, 2011

London (European Parliament constituency)

Relocating to London - Image via Wikipedia

Author:  Colleen

 

If you’re relocating to London and didn’t read my post yesterday, I’d initiated the major sucking up of pride and privacy to share my personal journal on first moving to London in 2008….maintained until living in London began to feel more like the everyday than a vacation.

The first entry is a continuation of the one before, and necessary context is as such: adding to the transitions of quitting a job and relocating abroad is the fact that we were just married that June and maintained our long-distance relationship between Chicago and New York until moving to London! That’s right, London is the first city my husband Ryan and I have lived in together since Chicago in 2004, if you can believe it (I still can’t).

21.10.08 [continued]

…See, now in extracting those details I have found myself unexpectedly reliving my first couple weeks at the The Enterprise Hotel, Ryan’s and my first home away from home, where we first arrived on a shockingly sunny, gorgeous  day. September 28th, to be exact, as we flew overnight. The lobby and restaurant of the hotel seemed updated and nice enough, yet the rooms evidently retain their English charm…in that they are tiny and cold. Whatever, it suited our needs (even though our luggage consumed half the room, even with 2 pieces stored downstairs), and the location was excellent. Hogarth Road extends directly from the Earl’s CourtTube station and is accessible to pubs, shops, cafes galore. We became so smitten with the area, in fact, that we’ve decided to stay here and, thus, just moved into a flat of our very own (our first together) yesterday.

More details on that later. I actually need to dash right now to catch the Tube to the city for my 2nd religion/science debate at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Last week’s debate centered on the Big Bang, and tonight is Evolution. That being said, gotta go so I get a seat.

23.10.08

The St. Paul’s debate the other night was great – unlike the prior one, there was an atheist in the panel, so that stirred things up. As did the clearly more ornery crowd who kept moaning about the echo – to a good end, though, as they did rectify the sound issue that had likewise been present last time. Next week is Body & Soul, i.e., debating whether there is a place in the human genome for the soul. I admittedly tend to tune out whenever anyone has been talking too long, and focus is even that much more of a challenge when the eye has a massive dome and intricate mosaics, sculptures, and paintings to wander about. A surreal kind of solitude even in a room filled with people. The intellectual, the curious….

A friend has teased me for my crush on Paul—yes, as in the cathedral—because I tend to mention it a lot in my blog posts. Well, this entry here is a clue as to why. I explain it in my “Found Your London Flat? Now Find Your London Deep.” post, but will say again here that, regardless if you’re religious or not, finding a quiet time and place for thought and reflection is invaluable after a London relocation when you may be re-evaluating a whole new personal and professional game plan going forward (prevalent among trailing spouses like me). St. Paul’s was that place for me at that critical time, and I’ll always carry that peace and introspection with me. May you find the same after your London move, and stay tuned tomorrow for another installment of “Relocating to London: The American Expat in London Diaries.”

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Living in London – Landmarks of London

Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011
Inside one of 32 sealed and air conditioned pa...

Image via Wikipedia

Author: Belinda

London is a city surrounded by landmarks that you may have read about in the media or even you history books. Living in London means that you are living in a thousand year old city with a wealth of history and some of the most historical and interesting landmarks in the world. You’ll have the opportunity of seeing the official residence of the Queen and the Royal family – Buckingham Palace that boasts 600 rooms. The City of Westminster which is the location of most government offices and Parliament where the House of Lords and House of Commons conduct their sittings as well as the Tower of London which was built by William the Conqueror as a royal fortress and also houses the Crown Jewels.

London has a population of over 7 million residents, which make it the biggest city in Britain. It also boasts the Tube, which is an underground railway system. It is also the entertainment capital of the world with a large number of theatres.

Rome might have the biggest dome, with St Peter’s Basilica but London has the second biggest dome known as St Paul’s Cathedral, which has gone through its own difficulties since 604 AD and has never been destroyed even during the bombing on London in the Second World War.

Another popular landmark albeit a little distance from London is Stonehenge, which was built 5000 years ago and is the topic and scene of mystery and wonder. Windsor Castle, which for 900 years has served as a royal residence, is situated near the famous river Thames. Another landmark that is great for a day trip out of London is Blackpool Tower, which is mainly considered a tourist attraction, but if you are living in London, you should pay a visit to what is considered the most famous seaside landmark in England.

London also boasts another modern landmark that is well worth a visit. The London Eye is the world’s biggest Ferris wheel and it carries 800 passengers on a thirty-minute journey giving you spectacular sights over London. It is an amazing landmark which will have you telling people back at home about it.

So, if you thought moving to London would be just an ordinary change then knowing that these incredible landmarks surround you should make you realise that you are part of the history that is London.

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London Locations: Postman’s Park

Tuesday, August 10th, 2010

Author:  Colleen

* * SPOILER ALERT if you haven’t seen the movie Closer!!! * *

After a nice walk through Notting Hill, Kensington Gardens, and Hyde Park yesterday with my cousins who are visiting London, I caught the Tube to the City to meet my husband and friends for dinner.  Quite pathetically, I had confused the days (it’s actually tonight that we meet :) ), so there was a period of time when he was underground on the Tube when I was trying to reach him and figured he was in a meeting or conference call; to kill some time, then, I strolled across the street to Postman’s Park.

I’d always wanted to visit this park ever since I saw the film Closer with Jude Law, Natalie Portman, Clive Owen, and Julia Roberts.  Once the lunch-break area for workers at the old post office nearby, the consequently named Postman’s Park is a sweet little haven from the bustle of London’s financial district, which also coexists with much tourism—in the case of the park, it is located very near the popular St. Paul’s Cathedral, but its low-profile entrances maintain it as a virtual London secret off the worn touristed path.  In addition to its intimate seclusion, the charm of Postman’s Park lies in its gallery of beautifully hand-painted tiles that memorialize everyday heroes.  It was founded by artist and philanthropist G.F. Watts in the Victorian era as a tribute to the self-sacrifice among common citizens, who all gave their lives in trying to save others.  Gazing upon them in solitude, I was very affected by the bravery of ordinary people in extraordinary circumstances and marveled that so many of them were children.  Be it rescue from drowning, fire, trains, or runaway horses, each individual’s selfless acts will forever blossom from those tiles.

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Tuesday Tidbits at London Relocation

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

This is going to be one of my more all-over-the-place posts, giving you a glimpse at an average day in the life of a Londoner.

It’s a busy week ahead as I prepare to fly home for Chicago on Friday, and mixed in with my packing are a couple great visitors.  Very excited about today in particular, as one of the top Anglophiles is in London this week – Jonathan Thomas of Anglotopia!  I’ve given a shout-out to Anglotopia here before (“London Relocation Loves Anglotopia” post) and have the privilege of meeting with Jonathan this afternoon for lunch.  In selecting a central meeting place, we’ve opted for Ye Olde Cheschire Cheese off of Fleet Street (yes, the Fleet Street of Demon Barber renown).  Rebuilt in 1667 after the Great Fire, it is believed that its cellars date back to a monastery that once stood on the site, dating back to the 13th century.  So, in about a half hour I’ll be catching the Central Line at Notting Hill Gate tube station.

I always enjoy an opportunity to venture into the City centre, especially on a gorgeous sunny day like today.  It is unreal how warm this UK summer has been so far; unfortunately, the grass is the casualty—I’ve never seen the UK so brown.  I’m still hoping to sneak a peek, though, at how the gardens of New Square off of Chancery Lane are holding up, as well as venture off to Sports Direct for a UK sports-related birthday present for my nephew—they usually have stellar sales and am hoping now that England is out of the World Cup that one good outcome is slashed prices on football paraphrenalia :)   And what a lovely thing ’tis that I can run such simple errands with St. Paul’s Cathedral as my backdrop, which is an aspect of London that makes the everyday extraordinary.  The spouse works around there, too, so perhaps I’ll catch him for a smooch before having to return home for…

…the Virgin Media guy.  When you move to London and set up your utilities, a few options you have for TV/phone/internet packages are Virgin, British Telecom (BT), Onetel, and Sky.  Londonistas from our London Living network have been asking me lately about this, and I’ve related to them that, while we might have opted for Sky for its movie channels, it required a landline, which we don’t have.  Virgin Media, then, has been the provider of choice, and we’ve been so far satisfied with their broadband and cable (complete with On-Demand movies and television shows as well as DVR functionality to record and stop/rewind/fast-forward live TV); the only issue we’re encountering now is the not-so-”Smart Card” we recently received in the mail and had to swap into our box…alas.  Not the best timing with the World Cup and Wimbledon underway, is it.  

*sigh*  After that, I’m sheh-juled to meet with another friend in town with his family.  Today, they’re off on the Stonehenge/Bath bus day-tour, so their return should perfectly coordinate with my 4-7pm cable-guy window.  As they’re staying in Earls Court, there are a myriad of restaurant options to choose from for dinner, be it a low-key pub like the Blackbird, a gastropub like the Pembroke, or my cafe fave, the Troubadour, not to mention a range of Italian, Thai, Indian, Greek and other cultural cuisine.

Oh, all the wonderful ways in London to procrastinate from packing…All right then, all this being said, I’ve gotsta’ go!

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London Bundle – The Embankment/Strand Strip (PART I)

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Yesterday’s London Bundle gave you a tour of the hub of British Royalty/Parliament from Westminster to Buckingham Palace.  Before long, I’ll be delving into London’s neighborhoods, but before we leave the center City, I’d like to walk you along the Embankment/Strand Strip.

You can begin either West or East, but I’m going to recommend hopping the Tube from wherever you’re starting from and take it to either St. Paul’s or Mansion House Tube stations.  From either station, a 1-minute walk will get you to the front steps of St. Paul’s Cathedral itself.  A church dedicated to St. Paul has stood on this site for 1,400 years (no kidding), and the current structure designed by Sir Christopher Wren is celebrating its 300th anniversary.  This immense architectural feat is awe-inspiring enough to view from the outside, but if you’re willing to spend the time and the fee, I highly recommend touring the inside as well.  At the very least, dash down into the Crypt Cafe for a refreshment and visit the Gift Shop—you’ll be able to peer into a bit of the crypt as well through the wrought iron gating.

Other breakfast/lunch options at this point (if you’re just starting your day) are just to the left of the Cathedral at the Paul or

Photo: David Sillitoe

Tea cafes or duck over a little further into Paternoster Square for a variety of cafe/restaurant options.  Just a block or so West of the cathedral is Bow Lane, a darling network of narrow streets filled with shops and pubs.  If you head a little North instead, you can see Postman’s Park and/or Smithfield Market, which is near the site of where William Wallace (a.k.a. “Braveheart”) was executed in 1305.  If you do wander by Postman’s Park, nearby across the street is an old bombed-out church just behind the Bank of America/Merrill Lynch corporate office on Edward St., which was an unintended target during WWII when the bomb was aimed for St. Paul’s.  Can you imagine if they’d hit their mark??

Speaking of Edward St. and executions, if you round the corner from the BofA office onto Newgate street, a couple blocks’ walk will bring you to the Old Bailey.  Dating back to the 17th century (when it was rebuilt after the Great Fire), the Old Bailey is England’s Central Criminal Court and, yes, the one that V blows up in the movie V for Vendetta, for those of you who are better with your pop culture than your history.  The former Newgate Prison at this sight held public executions in the area, which renders this site mega-haunted as far as paranormal experts are concerned.  The Viaduct Tavern across the street (dating back to 1875) is itself alleged to be one of the most haunted sites in London, though that doesn’t stop the professional folks from piling in by 5pm every weeknight :)

If it’s a mini-pub crawl yer after, round your way back to the front of St. Paul’s Cathedral and head West down Ludgate Hill into Fleet Street (as in the Demon Barber!).  Eventually, you will see a sign on your right beckoning you into a wee alley, in which Ye Olde Cheschire Cheese pub is tucked.  “Olde” indeed, this public house was rebuilt in 1667, and its cellars (which I personally think provide the most atmosphere seating–just be sure to mind your head on the way down!) date back to a 13th century monastery.  Charles Dickens was once a regular there.

Our bundle is not done yet, but, alas, I will leave you to tuck into your fish-n-chips or meat pie at Cheschire Cheese until Part II of our Embankment/Strand Strip saga.

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London Bundle – The Thames Circuit

Friday, May 14th, 2010

I’ve decided to start a new mini-series on how to group your visits to various London sites into manageable portions.  I’ve had several rounds of American guests come to visit and find that I’m consistently recommending the same tourism strategies, so let’s get started with a bigun’ that knocks out the bulk of the must-see quintessential London sites.

My suggested Thames Circuit can be picked up at any point and followed clockwise or counter-clockwise with different options along the way…doesn’t really matter to me; it’s your choice!  For sake of illustration, however, I will start at Westminster Tube Station.

As you emerge from the Tube, you will be greeted by the most familiar London site ever—Big Ben (well, it’s actually the massive bell that’s inside the clock tower that’s nicknamed Big Ben).  Extending beside and behind Big Ben are the houses of Parliament, and if you want to take this opportunity to duck over and see Westminster Abbey as well, by all means go for it.  It charges admission, but surely provides a compelling atmosphere and history (and Jeremy Irons is downright delightful to listen to as your audioguide).

Crossing Westminster Bridge will take you to the South Bank, where you can visit the Aquarium, Movieum, or the unmissable London Eye.  Continuing Westward along the South Bank will give you a pleasant vantage of the cityscape and river.  Eventually, you’ll find yourself approaching the Tate Modern art museum and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre—if it’s the arts that take your fancy, wander through the Tate or take a tour to learn about the original Globe Theatre (or even catch an actual performance in the open-air there as Shakespeare would have intended).

You can continue on from here or perhaps dash across the Millenium Bridge to view St. Paul’s Cathedral up close if its striking image across the water has been tempting you up to this point—its dome continues to tower above the surrounding buildings.  Otherwise, continuing on along the South Bank will ultimately bring into view the Tower Bridge (the one that many confuse with London Bridge), another renowned symbol of London.  Crossing the bridge here will deliver you unto the gates of the Tower of London, in which you can view the Crown Jewels and medieval weaponry as well as follow a Beefeater tour of the grounds of this former site of imprisonment, torture, and execution, including where Ann Boleyn was beheaded.  Just beyond the Tower is a small park atop Tower Hill itself, where the Tower’s prisoners were executed for all to see (and near which you can catch the Tube to your next destination of choice via the Tower Hill station).  If you are in no particular rush at this point, you might want to pop into the Hung, Drawn, & Quartered pub if you’re feeling a bit peckish/thirsty or linger at the Tube station for the evening Jack the Ripper tour to explore more of East London and its sordid past.

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