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Posts Tagged ‘Highgate Cemetery’

Art Imitating Life May Aid Your London Relocation

Monday, October 11th, 2010

Author:  Colleen

Knock-knock.

Who’s there?

Orange.

Orange who?

Orange you glad I’m not going to write about UK taxes this week?

(Whoa boy…UK taxation might be preferable to resurrecting hideous knock-knock jokes from childhood, huh…)

Sorry about that.  My brain is trying to get out of weekend-mode and not having a little difficulty doing so…not that telling bad jokes is how I spend my weekends….In truth, though, my weekends might not shape up to anything much cooler than curling up with a book on the sofa.  I know there’s a marvelous city out there with limitless options of things to do, but sometimes a gal needs a weekend when London can wait.  Yesterday in particular, however, for having not emerged from my cozy London flat all day, I sure felt like I had traversed the entire city, from the touristed parts to the off-the-beaten path.  It was an adventure of the mind and a very fun way of revisiting many places I’ve been.

Actually, for as fantastical as it is, parts of this novel almost read like a tutorial in relocating to London.  The book is Her Fearful Symmetry, written by Audrey Niffenegger and set in London’s Highgate Cemetery.  Not many average tourists are keen to make that trek up the Northern Line to the North London Highgate/Hampstead area, but I encourage you to do so, especially if you’re moving to London and will have the time.  It is so lovely up there, green and residential with a village feeling, yet with convenient access to central London.

In any case, Niffenegger herself (author of Time Traveler’s Wife, if the name isn’t ringing a bell) is an American expat living in London.  When she began this second novel, she at first intended to set it in one of Chicago’s most historic cemeteries, but the the cemetery became such a dominant aspect of the plot that she realized it needed to be the end-all-be-all of cemeteries in the world.  So she came to London and, more specifically, Highgate!  As part of her research, she became a volunteer for the Friends of Highgate Cemetery, and to this day if you take the tour of the West Cemetery, you may get a tour guide named Audrey ;) .  Throughout the novel, she lends her American perspective to her two female protagonists, naive twins originating from Chicago, Illinois’s Lake Forest suburb.  It is comical to read how they acquaint themselves with the London flat they’ve inherited (demonstrating their surprise to find a washing machine behind a cabinet door in the kitchen, just as I’ve written about before in my “Crouching Tenant, Hidden Dishwasher” post) as well as try to learn the local lingo.  They familiarize themselves with London public transportation, suffering the crowds of the Tube at rush hour and learning what an *ouch* black taxi fare is from Heathrow to North London.  They find the great neighborhoods for shopping like Sloane Square and Knightsbridge, which stores to shop at for practical needs like groceries and toiletries, and how to register with NHS.  They also learn the histories of London’s Magnficent Seven cemeteries that were established in the mid-eighteenth century to accommodate the overcrowding of the dead in the city’s churchyards.

Oh, and did I mention their flat is haunted?  Ah yes, ’tis a bit of a ghoulish read that is perfect for this time of year as we approach Halloween.  Another modern-day book I’ve read that comes to mind about an American staying in a haunted London flat is Gregory Maguire’s Lost (again, if the name isn’t familiar, he’s the author of Wicked).  Now that I think of it, perhaps I should compile a haunted London literature list for you at some point this month to get you in the mood for the season and your new, utterly atmospheric city if you’re moving to London soon.  I’ll keep you posted!

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London Bundle: Parks & Recreation Ramble

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

The weather is SO gorgeous outside, my recommended day-touring on a day like this would be to head North.  Catch the Northern Line to either Archway or Highgate tube stations and catch the afternoon tour at Highgate Cemetery.  You can tour the East cemetery on your own for £3, seeing notable graves such as that of Karl Marx, then partake in the guided tour of the cemetery’s atmospherically overgrown West cemetery, also the resting place of reputable people such as the Rossetti family.  Under the shade of the immense trees (a few of which are Redwoods from America’s West coast), you’ll meander through the lush vegetation and look on the chipped and eroded outcroppings of Victorian-style gravestones; perhaps the most unexpected part of this tour is the “Egyptian Avenue,” crypts fashioned after ancient Egyptian burials, which was the vogue thing to do in 19th-century England, evidently.

From Highgate Cemetery, you are in walking distance of the nearly 800 green acres of Hampstead Heath.  Tour this immense park at your leisure, hiking the hills, sitting by the duck ponds, or even swimming in the designated human ponds :)   A great pub located just outside the Northwest edge of the heath is the Spaniards Inn, where you don’t yet have to forego the outdoors when you seat yourself in the sunshine of their beergarden.  Otherwise, make your way to the high street for any assortment of sidewalk cafes and boutiques.  From here, you can hop the tube at either Hampstead or Belsize Park stations.

Depending on how your day is progressing, you can close it out here or perhaps take advantage of the extended summer daylight hours and make your way to the darling village of Primrose Hill (via tube to Chalk Farm or walking) for dinner and to watch the sunset from Primrose Hill itself, which, like Hampstead Heath, offers an outstanding city view.

This is a trek that not many tourists make, but when you actually move to London, make a point to explore these serene, residential Northern villages.

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London Literacy

Friday, June 4th, 2010

Instead of posting a London-related poem today, I thought I’d share a snippet from The Fallen Monkey blog, which had this to say about last week’s Highgate Cemetery event with authors Audrey Niffenegger and Tracy Chevalier:

“Imagine my delight during a dull workday afternoon when I received the phone call that my wait-listed arse had scored a last-minute opening for last night’s lecture.  Located in the 19th-century chapel of London’s Highgate Cemetery, the event began with a cocktail-half-hour of wine and milling about the gateway to Highgate’s West Cemetery (where poet Christina Rossetti and her brother, Pre-Raphaelite painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti are buried, among other notable deceased–Karl Marx is buried in the East counterpart).  Filing into the intimate confines of the chapel, we were treated to readings from each author’s novel as well as explanations as to how they came to chance upon Highgate Cemetery and become inspired to build their literary projects around its historic, overgrown, and elegantly morose splendor.

Both American women had merely visited as tourists that first time, but the impression upon both was immediate, and they subsequently became volunteer tour guides as a means of interacting with this enchanting garden of flora and headstones as well as unearthing more of its history than any texts could reveal (Niffenegger continues to conduct tours here, and Chevalier lives just down the hill from the site).  Following their brief “lectures” (which were structured as interviews between the two authors themselves), the floor was opened to a Q&A session with the audience…”

Read the rest of this post, Marveling Over the Macabre” at thefallenmonkey.com!

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London Locations: Highgate Cemetery

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010

Today I needs must be brief as I’m about to dash off to meet out-of-town visitors at Highgate Cemetery! I’m excited about this one, as it’s been on my London bucketlist for a while.   I’ve mentioned before my habit of strolling through Brompton Cemetery, so I already have an innate morbid fascination with cemeteries to begin with; however, what brings the less morose to this “attraction” are the notable dead forever slumbering beneath its surface—Karl Marx and the poet Christina Rossetti being among them.  Likely out of reverence for the cemetery’s permanent residents given its appeal to tourism, the site charges admission for entry.  The East Cemetery costs £3 per person, and the West Cemetery can only be viewed via guided tour at £7 per person (see website for the seasonal schedule).

Later this month on 26 May, authors Tracy Chevalier and Audrey Niffenegger will be conducting a lecture on how Highgate Cemetery influenced their novels.  Must dash, but I’ll let you know how it goes!

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