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Archive for the ‘history’ Category

London Transportation, Victorian Style

Wednesday, September 8th, 2010

In the wake of yesterday’s Tube strike fiasco (and given my recent fascination with Victorian London), I thought it might be fun to share what commuting through London in the 19th-century was like—perhaps it would help give perspective on how easy we still really have it these days.

Per Inside the Victorian Home:

“These streets were thronged, in a way that we have now forgotten. [....] the clerks streaming to and from work, the water carts spraying the dust, crossing sweepers keeping the worst of the mud and dung away from the pedestrians.”

Indeed, women did not emerge much from home—aside from the fact that they were required at home to oversee all domestic duties, walking those streets in that Victorian clothing was a drag!  As one contemporary lady related:

“It was difficult to walk freely in the heavy tweed ‘walking skirts,’ which kept on catching between the knees.  Round the bottom of these skirts I had, with my own hands, sewn two and a half yards of ‘brush braid,’ to collect the worst of the mud; for they inevitably swept the roads, however carefully I might hold them up behind…Afterwards the crusted mud had to be brushed off, which might take an hour or more to do.”

Ugh!  I love walking around London and couldn’t imagine being constricted this way.  The Underground, omnibuses, railways, and trams were consequently favored by these ladies, and just like everything else in Victorian times, these modes of public transport were stratified by social class.  One still sees 1st and 2nd class coaches on the overground trains nowadays, but back then they had three classes, and even the Tube had two, and though omnibuses had only one, their times of service started after the laboring class would have already needed to be at work.  Should a poorly dressed person manage to catch a bus:

“the driver would just slow, not stop, and the would-be passengers either had to jump while the bus was in motion or had to wait for a better-tempered driver.”   – Inside the Victorian Home

Even the right-of-way of private vehicles (as dictated by official Victorian rules of the road) gave favor to the privileged.  According to What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew:

“Carriages painted with a coat of arms take precedence over all others, [...] middle-class carriages with four horses have precedence over those with only two, the latter over cabriolets and tilburys, hired landaus over coaches, coaches over omnibuses, omnibuses over cabs, and so forth down to the trap, and even it has right of way over the cart.”

Yeesh, peer-pressure must have been brutal in those days…as were the physical conditions.  Before 1968 when stairs were introduced, the only way to sit on top of the double-deckered omnibus was to climb an iron ladder with only a strap to grab onto (women, naturally, were not expected to ride up there).  The Tube tunnels were filled with smoke from the coke-burning engines, and runaway horses and carriage accidents were common.  The railroad was a more comfortable means of travel, although not all trains had lighting or heating (instead, passengers brought their own candles and a porter would bring a metal basin filled with hot water to warm their feet—eventually gas lighting and steam heating were introduced), and toilets didn’t appear on trains until 1892!  I love this (again from What Jane Austen Ate…):

“Ladies might travel together in compartments separate from the gentlemen, for long journeys bringing chamber pots concealed in discreet baskets, while for gentleman long tubes that could be strapped along the leg under a trouser were advertised.”

Ha!  And lest we forget that all commuting throughout London would be conducted under the blue, gray and/or brown haze of the sky—the infamous “London Fog,” as it were (not to be confused as an actual fog)—thanks to the Industrial Revolution and millions of chimneys spewing their smoke and dirt into the atmosphere.  Even better, the haze bore a pungent smell for London residents to delight in.

Just some historical food-for-thought to acquaint you with the great strides the city has made since then, rendering it a world class location of great convenience and lifestyle for you to enjoy once you move to London.

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Weekend Warrior Sunday: London Leaders

Sunday, September 5th, 2010

Because I think it’s valuable for you to learn about England for your London move, I’m continuing on with my Weekend Warrior Sunday series.  Last weekend, we briefly met the Anglo-Saxons who settled in Lundenwic, just outside of the Roman Londinium.

By the early 8th century, London had fallen under the control of Mercia, another Anglo-Saxon kingdom that was centered in the English midlands.  By now the destroyed St. Paul’s Cathedral had long since been rebuilt, only to fall again at the hands of…Vikings! More than a century before leveling poor Paul in 962, the Vikings had begun raiding England.  London itself was sacked in 842 and yet again in 851.

[For a great weekend-excursion after you've settled into your new London flat, head up north to York and learn more about the Viking settlements in England at the Jorvik Viking Centre.]

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Top 10 Reasons to Move to London: Part II

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Guess who’s FINALLY getting around to posting #6-10 on her Top 10 Reasons to Move to London list from last week?  Really?  Well, if you see her, please ask if she minds posting my list, too; it’s so hard to narrow it down!

All right, all right, I’ll see if I can limit it to just five more lovely London things…[drumroll, please]

6.  London’s public transportation.  While I have many blog posts already devoted to getting around London, allow me another shout-out to the incredible rail systems linking the city and its surroundings together in a sophisticated network via the Overground or Underground (a.k.a. “The Tube“) trains; the bus system (yes, those cute red double-deckers) also covers a wide range of routes—for both trains and buses, the Oyster card is the easy way to go to pay your fares.  To make the city even more convenient to get around in (and in a healthier way), they’ve just implemented the Barclays cycle hire scheme, which so far seems to be going off without a hitch—if anything, they need to redistribute more bikes into the City centre by morning for all the people that have been riding them home from work every day.  And if you’re willing to cough up the extra pounds to take the classic black London taxi, at least you’ll be treated to a well-maintained and spacious vehicle with a (most of the time) courteous driver with an amazing memory for London streets.  If going on foot, the street signs and lamps are very conducive to helping you cross the road, though you might want to mind the sidewalks

7.  The food.  Whether it’s local pub grub or exotic cuisine from all around the world, you will never experience more variety.  Even the elusive Mexican food that we Americans so crave is becoming more prevalent on this side of the pond (we just scored a Chipotle in spring!), and you’ve got your American food stores as fall-backs.  The freshness of the food is another draw in this largely agricultural country—have your pick of it at the many open markets in the city as well as enjoy the fresher prepared meals at London’s grocers vs. the frozen, preservative-saturated TV-tray dinner variety.

8.  Shopping!  Whether it’s the high street labels or the small boutiques (try Portobello or Camden for some fun finds), the latest from the runways of Fashion Week or the charms of vintage, you’ll find any range of creative styles strutting those sidewalks, truly rendering London a fashion capital.  The Victorians would be amazed at how anything goes these days :)

9.  The architecture.  Last week, I addressed the profound historical merit of the city, and much of this shows through in its present-day structures in which you’ll live, work, eat, and shop.  Maybe that doesn’t do it for you, but I’m a gal of aesthetics, so I enjoy the fact that I don’t have to be at a museum or palace to be treated to the intricacy and quality put into construction years ago—even as I type this, I can look out at a Victorian church and lovely row of terraced houses just beyond.  Within my own flat, I crane my neck to look at the ceiling and delight in its ornate floral molding running around the entire perimeter, a special bit of eye candy along with other nooks and crannies to be found in older homes.  Many London flats are located in these Victorian terraced houses, but the city also seems itching for modern architecture at any chance it gets (example:  the “Gherkin,” as pictured above), and if you prefer modern construction for your living needs, you can find it in areas like Canary Wharf and Battersea.

10.  While I’ve listed these in no particular order, I’ll close here with a nod to the overall laidback, appreciative zest for life that Londoners have.  When I consider what I see in abundance here, it’s pubs and gardens.  And what these signify to me is a city that works hard but knows when stop and play.  It helps one strike a wonderful balance in urban life as opposed to the intensity of a city like New York.  Sure, the financial district is buzzing by day here, too, but come 17:00, those business suits are filtering into their closest public house for a pint at day’s end, and even if you don’t drink alcohol, the pub atmosphere is just as cozy and calming to drink tea within.  And for all the buildings that I just referenced in #9 above, a majority of windowsills are blooming with flowers and topiaries, and square blocks of prime central property are still gated off as private gardens for the residents to enjoy in addition to the public parks that abound like Hampstead Heath, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and Battersea Park (which all helps make this a very dog-friendly city).  Leisure and green spaces are valued here as much as effort and commerce, and that’s a middle of the road that suits me quite fine while still being far from the ordinary.

When it comes down to it, it’s quite impossible to say there are only 10 reasons to move to London, which in and of itself is your #11.  So pack your bags and make that London relocation happen!

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Weekend Warrior Sunday: London Leaders

Sunday, August 29th, 2010

It’s our second Weekend Warrior weekend, so today I’ll be moving right along through Britain’s history from the early Roman conquest that established Londinium to the time of Anglo-Saxon London.

An Anglo-Saxon cemetery was evidently discovered in Covent Garden in 2008 that confirmed their presence in London as early as the 5th or 6th century.  Though they didn’t dwell on the same exact site as Londonium, the settled just outside the Roman walls in what they called Lundenwic—today, the approximate site would be along the Strand from Trafalgar Square to Aldwich!  These people were known as the Middle Saxons (the namesake for present-day Middlesex), though were eventually absorbed by the kingdom of the East Saxons.  Under King Ethelbert of Kent (the first English king to convert to Christianity), the very first St. Paul’s Cathedral was built in the year 604, albeit of far more modest stature than the one now standing on this site.  Indeed, as it was only made of wood, it already burnt down in 675, about two to three decades after Christianity was established permanently in the kingdom under the reign of King Sigebehrt II.

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London’s Summer Festivals: Notting Hill Carnival

Friday, August 27th, 2010

If you’ve already completed your London relocation, you’re just in time for the Notting Hill Carnival!  I originally intended to continue on with Part II of my Top 10 reasons to move to London today, but realized I’d be remiss to go into this weekend and not to mention the grand fete.

This is one of those events that makes me give the Notting Hill neighbourhooda double-take.  Just when you might fear it will become too gentrified to appease tourists, its diverse background rears its head and strikes out with a lashing of eccentric, multicultural festivities to remind us of the Caribbean demographic that once dominated these streets and celebrate the general joy and debauchery of life.  Ever since 1964, this has been a time for Notting Hill to really let its hair down and deck itself out in color and glitter, entertaining the masses with vibrant costumes and ethnic music and cuisine.  Sunday is Kid’s Day, which will appeal to you if you’re looking for a lower-key experience of Carnival; otherwise, if you’re ready to swim in the sea of parade-watchers, mark down the bank holiday Monday in your diary.

If you come to the area this weekend, commit to the Carnival experience–your other favourite shops and eateries will likely be closed if not boarded up to brace against the onslaught.  Cheers to those of you moving to this London neighbourhood this week–what better way to kick off your new tenancy!  If you’re looking to move to the area after things settle down a bit (you know, when you can actually see the buildings, London Relocation Ltd. will have braved the eclectic storm to still be here for your call!

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Top 10 Reasons to Move to London: Part I

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

The decision to relocate to London is easier for some than others.  Maybe you’re being transferred for your job and feel like you have no choice.  Maybe you’re moving to London without a job and have no clue how you’re going to get your visa, but you’re bound and determined to get there.  Regardless what bucket you fall into, everyone will agree there’s something special about the city of London worth moving for:

1.  The layers upon layers of London history.  As my Weekend Warrior Sundays are now chronicling, the city of London dates back to ancient times, with a surprising amount of structures/artifacts still intact to prove it.  One of my favorite moments of appreciating this aspect was standing in Ye Olde Cheschire Cheese with the founders of Anglotopia, when Jonathan commented, “This pub is older than America.”  Historical sites and tales are endless, and most museums are free!

2.  London’s cultural diversity.  You aren’t moving into a realm merely of men in tweed suits and bowler hats; you’ll be immersing yourself in a rich and spicy melting pot of all ethnicities.  Listen to the languages, taste the food, feel the various fabrics, and see the world from an entirely different perspective.

3.  The perfect hub for travel.  Whether you’re just road-tripping or jet-setting for a bank holiday weekend excursion outside of London, or delighting in the nationally mandated 5.6 weeks of vacation and joining the rest of Britain on its August mass exodus, there are simply not enough days in the year to accommodate all the places you can easily go to from London.  Even just day-tripping in the UK is a valuable experience, but if you’re eager to skip the border, you can grab cheap flights on EasyJet or RyanAir or take the Eurostar into France.

4.  First-rate entertainment.  Be it at the West End theatres watching a musical or on your sofa watching TV, there’s gobs of talent in London waiting to be enjoyed.  The variety of theatrical performances to choose from any given day is staggering, and the prices are more reasonable than Broadway.  British humor on the telly alone is worth it with its dry cheekiness; yes, they love their reality TV as well (which inspired most of the reality shows in the U.S.) and show an awful lot of American sitcoms here, but one trait of UK TV that I particularly enjoy is the panel show.  Whatever theme it is structured around, the participants’ discussion is both comedic and intelligent, reinforcing the art of conversation beyond the inane scripted babble of The Hills variety.

5.  The mindset.  Never in my life have I networked with such depth and frequency before moving to London.  Because it is a diverse city, its population is comprised of many expatriates who are relocating to the UK and leaving their familiar support networks behind.  This has the effect of making people very proactive in seeking friendship and professional contacts, opening themselves more up to new people and experiences than they might have in their home comfort zone.  I’ve grown a lot in this respect and feel enriched by the people of substance I’ve had the pleasure of meeting since relocating to London myself and find this to be a very special aspect of the move that I hope you will enjoy as well.

All right, then, I’ll leave you in suspense until Wednesday for Part II of (in my opinion) the top 10 reasons to move to London.

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Living in London: Seeing is Believing

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

If you’re thinking of moving to London and not yet in the hardcore logistics phase when everything that is preoccupying you about the city is where to rent a flat in London, how to move your belongings here, where to work or go to school, etc., etc., then you’re hopefully in  the delightful honeymoon stage of dreaming…thinking of all things Britain that meet your fancy—the cultural scene, the history, the jaw-dropping architecture.  Well, the following is a little factoid that may appeal to at least the latter two interests.

Yes, I’ve been back reading my London’s Strangest Tales book again.  Can you blame me?  It’s fascinating!  And so utterly random…this is stuff you definitely don’t hear on the London city tours, well, not most of it anyway.  At any rate, when visit or move to London, an inevitable walk you must take is along the River Thames in the city’s center.  As you walk along London’s Southbank, the striking component of its Northbank view (indeed, a site that has dominated the skyline for centuries) is one of my favorites, St. Paul’s Cathedral.  If you haven’t seen it in ‘person’ yet, surely you can remember its front steps as where the sweet old bird lady fed the birds in Mary Poppins? :)

(as a little London literacy lesson for you, “tuppence” was Victorian/Edwardian English slang for “two pence”)

This soft little ditty floats to my inner ear whenever I’m cutting through the bustle of London’s financial district and trying to quiet the noise from my mind to admire this magnificent structure.  It simply cannot be overrated, nor should it be taken for granted.  As my book relates, the Blitzkrieg of London between 1940 and 1941 devastated so much of the city’s historical structures, and you can be certain that St. Paul’s made an ideal target.

How did it survive?  I don’t think anyone really knows, though I know what I’d like to believe.

Homes, offices, and shops like the historical Paternoster Row booksellers were obliterated in Paul’s immediate surroundings.  Just behind the Bank of America Merrill Lynch Financial Centre still stands the ruins of a smaller church that was bombed out by a missile surely aimed for Wren’s grand cathedral (though the stone shell of it remains, the interior has been converted into a peaceful garden where you can sit and gaze to the sky through what would have once been the roof).

This all I’d known, but what I didn’t realize is that a bomb did fall frighteningly close to St. Paul’s on September 12th, 1940 and surely would have brought the cathedral to the ground…had it not failed to detonate.  Embedded deeply in the ground, right up against the foundations of the southwest tower, the bomb required three days of caaarrreful excavation to remove it intact.  It was afterwards transported slooowwwly to Hackney Marshes where it was more safely set off, leaving a crater of over 100 feet wide.

As I dwell in my Victorian era terraced house, it is difficult to imagine the air-raid sirens and utter terror its WWII residents must have felt.  When I take the Tube, I rarely picture the Underground as a bunker protecting masses of the huddled and fearful.  Tourists taking the Jack the Ripper tour will complain about how so few of the buildings from that era still exist on the blocks they visit in East London, likely not giving thought as to why they no longer exist.  It’s challenging to believe without seeing sometimes, and perhaps some things are best left forgotten.  But you know what they say about history being doomed to be repeated, so I say do what you can to remember it.  Remember that St. Paul’s is a miracle next time you notice its dome watching over you; view the church nearby that was not so lucky; inspect the sphinxes guarding over Cleopatra’s Needle on the north Thames walk and poke your fingers through the holes penetrated in the bronze by shrapnel; notice the damage dotted along the Victoria and Albert Museum‘s exterior walls.  Take it even further and not only look at but walk inside the Churchill War Rooms, where Churchill and his cabinet strategized as the bombs flew overhead.

When you move to London, England, its past will become a very real part of your present.

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Weekend Warrior Sunday: London Leaders

Sunday, August 22nd, 2010

As promised in my previous post, whereas Weekend Warrior Saturdays will entail practical moving tips for your London relocation, Weekend Warrior Sundays will share a tidbit in history on the significant people who have made London what it is today (this is how I’ll run with it for a while, at least :) ).

To start from antiquity, what those who aren’t yet living in London may not realize is that the ancient Romans once settled here.  Indeed, Julius Caesar’s army invaded England back in 55 BC – the Romans landed at Kent and journeyed north until they hit the Thames River at modern-day Southwark.  There was only a small tribe living in the area at the time, but when the Romans returned nearly a century later, there was a larger settlement there utilizing it as a mercantile port.  In 43 AD, the Emporor Claudius invaded Britain and established its capital city on the north bank of the Thames, naming it Londinium.  The city prospered to a population of 50,000 by the 3rd century, yet by the 5th century, the Roman Empire had fallen.  Londinium was consequently left abandoned to the Saxons.

Just a little something to consider as you plan to relocate to the UK – it isn’t all about Shakespeare and Henry VIII in these here parts.  England has an ancient history that is still present to the eye, with roads that still follow the paths established by the Romans and outcroppings of ruins here and there – in London, you can see remnants of a Roman wall that delineated the city’s boundary immediately outside Tower Hill tube station and scattered between the city centre’s corporate offices!

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Fun-Fact for Americans Moving to London

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

I’m feeling in a mood for trivia today.  Perhaps you are, too, right now as  you Google-search for a superior London relocation agency to assist you with renting a flat when you move to London from America, Canada, or anywhere else on the globe.  As you conduct your research, there is a lot that you need to know in order to prepare for a UK relocation (see our posts in the categories “London Property Tips” or “visas, banking, & other logistical issues,” for instance).

And then there is a lot that you don’t really need to know, that may be utterly useless to your ongoing existence, really.  And that is what I am proud to bring you today.

Okay, first, need-to-know information for an American expat in London—where your embassy is located:

U.S. Embassy, London
24 Grosvenor Square
London, W1A 2LQ
United Kingdom

Anyone who has already been there (including moi, during my passport/visa-replacement saga following purse theft) can testify that it…is…an eyesore.  Team America loses 500 points for creativity.  It’s a sight that would make even George Washington’s wooden teeth ache.  They are, however, in the process of a building redesign.

And now for the excitedly promised needless-to-know information:

Flipping through the book, London’s Strangest Tales, I just learned…

“[I]n the late 1950s the Duke of Westminster agreed to allow the Americans to demolish the whole of the west side of [Grosvenor] square so they could put up the terrible building we see today, but the siting of the American Embassy led to one of the most bizarre and protracted processes of negotiation ever seen in London.”

Go U.S.A.!  :)   Anyways, all around the globe, our American government owns the land on which its embassies reside.  In the case of London, however, the land is owned by the Grosvenor family, who evidently never sell.  And why would they, when their property holdings (300 acres in central London alone) include much of the posh Mayfair and Belgravia.  As landowner, the Duke of Westminster  rejected the U.S.’s request, though after the States’ appeal to Parliament he did make the cheeky compromise that the U.S. could purchase if it returned the land that it stole following the War of Independence.  As this would mean coughing up a lot of New York and Maine, the U.S. said thanks, but no thanks.

“[T]hey backed down and the Duke of Westminster allowed them a 999-year lease. And that explains why the embassy in London is the only American embassy built on land not owned by the United States.”

Huh.

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Plot, Sikhs, & Two Smoking Barrels

Monday, August 16th, 2010

I just mentioned in my last post on Friday that I was heading up to the English midlands for the weekend, and now I’m back feeling enriched and not a little bit in pain for it :)

We did indeed get to see the room (at least from the outside) where the Gunpowder Plot conspirators developed the bulk of their plan to blow up Parliament and the King right along with it.  The countryside around Ashby St. Ledgers is the most peaceful I’ve yet experienced in England and the sheer beauty made it absolutely no bother that we were trekking around in the rain.

Saturday night we attended the wedding of my husband’s colleague in Wolverhampton.  We did not participate in the day’s ceremonies, but we delighted in our first Sikh wedding reception.  Being big fans of Indian food, the assortment of lamb, chicken, and vegetarian dishes gracing the center of our table for family-style serving was a highlight, as was the dazzling splendor that was watching a rainbow of glittering saris swirl round—unique in their colors and embroidery, I certainly felt Plain Jane in my standard ‘little black dress’ uniform.

Hopefully it doesn’t sound terribly cheesy or stereotypical of me to reference, but I couldn’t help thinking of the wedding scene in the film Bend it Like Beckham that evening; it was my first time being a part of this cultural celebration that merged India with the United Kingdom.  My husband sees the bride on a day-to-day basis in her corporate attire, yet here she was glimmering from head to toe in golden embroidery and jewelry, the henna tattoo elaborately curling to her fingertips and harkening to another aspect of her cultural composition.  It was funny when she mentioned how her older female relatives admonished her for nonchalantly allowing some of the tattoo to already wash away, bringing to mind the cultural clashes that must occur now and then on both large and small scales.  The fusion of the two cultures was further evidenced in plain sight by the little movie posters mounted at the center of each table—corresponding with their numbers, each table was named after a different film, some Hollywood, some Bollywood.  We really felt in the midst of the latter cinema when we walked into a banquet room with walls and dancefloor twinkling like starlight through a pink mist, all of which really came to life once the music and dancing began.  (am frustrated with myself for having no photos to share here of the actual event!)

But what caused the physical pain I’m still suffering today?  Well, though the 4.5-inch heels I was wearing at the wedding were worthy contenders, it’s my right shoulder that’s making me wince after shooting a few dozen rounds yesterday at JJ’s Clay Shooting Club in the Darenth Woods (just south of London).  I’ve never wielded a firearm before, so what better way to be initiated than a big ol’ shotgun that made my arms shake every time I aimed and yelled, “Pull!”  A few clay pigeons met their demise at my hands, but I missed most of them, so am just glad I didn’t happen to be firing when a flock of real pigeons flew through, as knowing my luck I would’ve missed the disk and accidentally shot one of them instead…

So that was my weekend—packed with history, culture, and adventure.  All in 2 days, all accessible from London, so this is just a glimpse at how a London relocation can truly diversify your everyday experiences!

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